I wonder at times why we don’t get up and out for every dawn. When you are camping or sleeping in a tiny VW van at western the edge of Ireland, every sound tells you, the day is here! Get out of bed now!
It starts with crows flying from their roost across the harbour to the Castle. I catch them crossing overhead from my leaba. (Irish for bed) It is still chilly and about 6.30 when the swallows begin to chatter. So we jump up, pull on jackets and shoes and go out into the morning. The step from the leaba to Kinvarra Pier is literally just one leap out of bed onto the stones!
The village is still asleep except for these fishermen. Three generations, they board a tiny boat to take them further out in the harbour to their trawler. They seem cold and very serious about their work, never casting a glance left or right.
Gradually the sun rises up from behind the castle, making the sky deep and golden. Swallows gather around our heads, lining up in rows on wires and masts. Getting ready to head back to Africa, they are giddy and lithe. Like ourselves, two big kids. Gawking, as if we never saw a sunrise, as if we never before had stood on a chilly pier at dawn, skywatching.